Oct 12 | MERU EXPEDITION 2011 - DISPATCH 5

By Jimmy Chin

After twelve days on the route, we summited the Sharks Fin at 140pm on October 2nd.

Often starting at night, we would climb through the day and back into the night, lost between light and darkness. Time and existence blurred. Always fighting upwards. Always pushing the line. We were momentarily confused when there was finally no place further left to go. Exhaustion and joy canceled each other out on the summit. We were numb for the descent. Another battle. Cold. Survival. After making it back down to our bivy in the sky, we spent a final night at over 20,000ft before we embarked on another 20 hour odyssey of endless rappels. Beefy anchors slowly waned through the day and night until eventually we were all anchoring in and rapping off single pieces. We would all stare, will the single piece of gear to hold as the first person would begin rappelling. "Don't rap off the end of the rope" became the mantra.

The sharp awareness of the void below began to dull as we dumped more and more elevation with each release of the brakehand on our rap devices, jolting ourselves down the ropes. Just like we wondered if there was a top to this thing, we began to wonder if there was a bottom. Down and down we went, through the day, through the night with wet semi frozen gloves. Exhaustion was setting in. Until, finally, we reached the lower snow slopes. As the angle eased off a bit, we down climbed. Slowly at first, facing in, kicking each step as carefully as possible, knowing we were getting sloppy and careless. Then, eventually facing out, stumbling, and soon, running downward towards freedom. We tripped, slid and fell shamelessly down the slope. Twelve days in our harnesses. We finally crossed the final bergshrund dropped the harnesses on the ground. We tossed packs, gear slings, cams, ice axes, screws, everything onto the snow. We were back in the horizontal world and finally free of the Sharks Fin.

Low point: Falling through the portaledge when it snapped in half on the fourth day at 19,000+ ft.

High point: Now

We're back in Delhi a few pounds lighter literally and figuratively. And, we have a few new stories. We're looking forward to sharing some of them when we return.

Starting the travel sequence home tonight.

Thanks for following. Here are a few more pics to chew on.

Comments

[Eric]

Incredible! What a climb. Glad to hear you guys were able to stave off the unrelenting climb and descent to make it home safe and sane. Can't wait to see and read about this in more detail later. Congrats on making the summit!

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Thanks for taking this opportunity to discuss this, I feel fervently about this and I like learning about this subject

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You are a very brave man!! Very beautiful scenery and amazing adventure)) probably very cold there =)

[lynsey]

Wow! that's the stuff legends are made of, so happy to have you home safe

[Johann Peters]

Totally OCD on this adventure after 3 times :) So happy you finally did it. Long time coming and your determination is what sets you bros apart from the rest. Rock on! Johann Peters

[Barlow]

I love the sport!

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I just sent this post to a bunch of my friends as I agree with most of what you’re saying here and the way you’ve presented it is awesome.

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This was amazing, what a climbing you all are just amazing, i hope you guys enjoys allot because seeing your pics sitting near my pc i am enjoying allot, so you guys definately had a great fun, thanks for sharing your lovely moments with us.

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Wow,so nice pics you guys posted here after seeing this i feel to go there and do same as you guys doing,i know sounds crazy because its not easy as you guys doing want much practice for doing this.anyways i like your stunts hope you guys enjoy so much there.

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ya i know you guys never stop exploring because by reading all of your experience i came to know that you guys born for exploring the world,i read your whole article and enjoyed allot while reading on your tough moments which you guys face in your journey's.Thanks for all this share.

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Mountain climbing is always a big and great adventure. Mountain climbing is really very horrible but it is full of fun.

[Lindy Pankratz]

Fabulous work, what a nice climb i am speechless after seeing your photos its really a great adventure for you and i am sure that you guys really enjoyed allot.

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I hope that you guys enjoy these twelve days so much its a great read for me also because so many things new i came to hear from your article.Thanks to share all your pics your pic add more fun in reading your article.

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