Jun 26 | Speed Climbing the Nose!

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Alex and Hans climb the nose. (Photo courtesy of Tom Evans at ElCap Reports)

Two weekends ago Hans Florine and I climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:23:46, setting a new speed record in front of a very supportive crowd gathered in El Cap Meadows.

The thing about speed climbing is that it's not really about climbing fast.

Smooth efficiency takes the place of actual fast movement, especially on a route as long as the Nose. It's more about having all your systems dialed and not making mistakes than running as fast as you can and dynoing for holds. And that's what makes the whole speed climbing game so rewarding - when you do it well you climb smoothly and perfectly, which is one of the best feelings in climbing.

We did have a lot of slack out in places and occasionally took each other off belay, but at all the hard parts the leader would be on a real belay. Whenever we were aid climbing or trusting fixed gear we would be on a normal belay.

And most importantly, we always had at least two pieces of gear between us, meaning that under no circumstances, even worst-case scenario type situations, could we actually fall completely off the face. We might be looking at potentially long falls in places, but something would always have caught us, and on a cliff as steep and clean as El Cap sometimes falls like that work out ok.

As Hans always says, "Safety first, fun second, speed third."

In all our attempts on the Nose we always followed these rules, which is part of what made the whole experience so fun. 

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A big thanks to Tom Evans at ElCap Reports for allowing us to use his photography.

 

Jun 25 | Ambassador Juan Martinez Shares his story and his thoughts on the importance of being a role model

Inspiration lives. It is found in the sweet smell of dew that only a sunrise can provoke or the chorus sung by the waterfall. More so it is found amongst those who live their life according to their passion. I find hope in these people. They break records, boundaries, and meet challenges. Within The North Face I have found a tribe. A tribe made up of amazing men and women who challenge themselves beyond their own limits, but even more importantly they inspire many of us to go out into the realms of our own internal wildness and explore beyond our limits. No matter if those limits are huge leaps or small steps towards greater horizons.

Having summited The Grand Teton with Conrad Anker I now know what a dream feels like when it becomes a reality. No words can describe it. I find role models in everyday life. From the janitor that hopes for a better education for his children, the first generation college bound student, to the family that packs into a car in search of timeless memories within our American heritage of green and open spaces.

Role models push us to make ideas and dreams a reality. We find inspiration when we can marvel at the intricate connections in the great outdoors. A beach, desert, forest, mountains whatever place is near you go out there and find it and take someone with you. Those are the moments that can change a life. I know this to be a fact. 

You have the opportunity to make a difference in someone's life.  Pledge to be a Role Model today- 

apps.facebook.com/tnfrolemodels

 

Jun 22 | Get Outside. Take Someone With You!

Role models

The North Face today challenged people across the country to get outside, and take someone with them.  Launching today on The North Face Facebook page and TheNorthFace.com, Role Models is an online pledge where people commit to taking someone outdoors this summer, helping to start a global movement of outdoor exploration. 

 “If you’ve never had anyone show you how to tie a safe figure eight knot for climbing, set up a tent, or even understand how much water you need for an overnighter, getting outside for the first time can be daunting,” said Ann Krcik director of Outdoor Exploration for The North Face.  “Our goal with Role Models is to empower all of those outdoor enthusiasts to share their passion and their knowledge to create a new generation of explorers.  Think about who taught you an appreciation for the outdoors, then pay it forward.”

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By taking the Role Models pledge and sharing photos, you’ll be entered to win The North Face gear that will help you get outdoors more often. The North Face will also be donating $1 per pledge (up to $10,000) to the Children & Nature Network, a non-profit organization dedicated to fighting Nature Deficit Disorder.

“We teach our kids manners, to be kind to others – always leading by example. We have a responsibility to be Role Models for them in the outdoors as well, because if they don’t learn a passion for exploration or an appreciation for the world’s wild places from us, who will they learn it from?” said Kit DesLauriers, world-renowned skier and mother of two. 

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 For more information and to pledge to be a Role Model, visit apps.facebook.com/tnfrolemodels or www.thenorthface.com/rolemodels.

 

Jun 21 | Western States Countdown: Pre-Race Q&A with Lizzy Hawker

Lizzy MB

Q: This is your first time running Western States, but you're no stranger to rough, mountainous terrain. Is there anything you've been adding to your training to help you prepare for this race in particular? 

Of course, this is my first time running WS100, so it is all a big unknown to me, but Western States is said to be a fast runnable course, rather than rough mountainous terrain, so I think a mixture of faster long trainings helps.  My own training has been hindered by injury during the past months. I'm still not 100% , so I will be standing on the start line of WS100 with a mixure of apprehension and hope!  It is hard to say where I'm 'at', but what I can say is that I'm looking forward to giving absolutely everything I've got on the day ... and that is all I can ask.

Q: What is it about the Western States 100 that makes it one of those "bucket list" races that ultrarunners have to do at some point in their careers? What made you want to add it to your calendar this year? 

It is a race with a long history, and it will have a very strong field this year - so I am very happy for the opportunity to be here, and to be a part of this 2012 edition.

Q: You've been running in your new spring athlete kit from The North Face, and you'll be racing in it this weekend. Is there anything piece or product feature in particular that stands out as a must-have, or one that you are really enjoying running in? 

The running skort - never did I imagine running in a skirt, but it is really comfortable!

 

Jun 21 | LISA RANDS ON HER NEW VERTO 26 PACK

Merriam Peak 308-vertoThe hot humid weather of the Southeast has shut down the climbing playgrounds of sandstone boulders that brought me road tripping from my home town of Bishop, California, to the other side of the country. As my trip draws to an end, I’m feeling the longing pull back home, back to the long days Alpine climbing and hiking in the high peaks of the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains. Waiting for me back there will be the hometown friends I’ve been missing, my playful kitty cats, AND a brand-new Verto 26 backpack!

Over the past few years, my pack and I have been through a lot of adventures together. We travelled across the world, to China, to England, to Sweden, Chile, Mexico, the Southeast US, and that pack never left my side. I had amazing climbing trips into the Mountains, endless days out at the boulders, and I also dragged that pack to every event I attended, and around every city or town on my itinerary. As it was looking threadbare by this time, I retired that pack before my latest excursion.

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I know it could have handled more, but seeing as The North Face have come out with an updated design in new colors, as a TNF ambassador I decided to order a new one. I can’t wait to get back to pick it up and set off on new adventures. The past few years I have spent a lot of time both bouldering and Alpine climbing. The demands I have out of my gear varies greatly for these styles of climbing, yet I found the Verto’s simple design, light-weight and durable fabric perfect for both—and a lot more besides.

Merriam Peak 305-VertoWhen out bouldering I carry a “crash pad.” This is the pad I put below the boulders to cushion my fall if I take a sudden spill. Crash pads typically fold in half and have straps on one side for carrying them. I take my pack, throw into it all the gear I need for the days’ bouldering and stuff that inside my pad for the trip to and from the climbing. The pack’s ultra-light design, easy to load opening and minimalist material will take up almost no extra space. Using it means my gear doesn’t fall out on the trail mid-approach and I also have, in the top pouch, a place to conveniently store car keys, my climbing tape, nail clippers and file, bouldering brush, energy bar, and of course my beanie and lip salve.

Inside the main compartment are usually two models of Evolv climbing shoe, food and water for the day, and the indispensible Diez jacket (another must-have on all my outings).

Alpine climbing is toward the opposite end of the climbing spectrum from bouldering. Typically, this involves hiking a number of miles into the mountains to reach the climbing goal. Some of these adventures are multi-day excursions, while others might be fast and light in-a-day challenges. Either way a comfortable internal frame pack such as the Prophet 40 or Prophet 65 is needed to carry in the gear. I am no pack-mule, so for me picking a lightweight pack at the right capacity is important. For a single day excursion I hike my climbing gear with a Prophet 40 (40-liter) pack and use my Verto 26 like a compression stuff sack within that loaded with my gear for the climb. At the objective, I pull out the Verto and wear this while climbing.

6.21.10_Hulk 146-vertoWith multi-day excursions such as last summer’s trip into Merriam Peak, I use my Prophet 65 (65-liter) pack on the 10 mile hike. The Verto works as a compression stuff sack for my sleeping bag and down jacket, but at the camp site I unload it and repack it for the climbing. The Verto makes a great Alpine ascent pack. In the main compartment are my water bottle, headlamp, beanie, lightweight wind/rain jacket plus an insulated belay jacket to be shared by both climbers—typically, for me the Diez Jacket. I always keep lip-salve, climbing tape, Newskin, and a power bar in the top pouch.

 

Back in town, when making my way to an airport, I find I’m wearing the very same pack I wore on top of the rock spires in the Sierra. Those great features that make it ideal for stashing inside my Prophet, carrying on a rock climb and cruising through DIA or LAX just as well! With the severe baggage restrictions being implemented by the airlines, why waste money on another clunky shoulder bag when your simple Verto does everything better? It works great for sight-seeing jaunts, grocery runs, Alpine ascents and everything in between. For my new one I picked the black and yellow!

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Jun 20 | ROLE MODELS :: TNF Athlete MIKE WARDIAN tips for the Active parent

Visit www.thenorthface.com/rolemodels to find a Role Models clinic near you!


Wardian_Michael

1) Bring Snacks--even if you just feed your kids, they are going to get hungry being outside and having snacks (cereal, pretzels, cheese sticks, fruit, etc...) & drinks (water/milk, etc..) will make the run better for everyone

 

2) Bring extra clothes, the kids are going to be sitting for the most part and that means they are going to be cold (if spring, fall, winter) so having blankets and extra gloves, hats, will be a must.

 

3) I suggest bringing a cell phone (with camera), just in case anything happens you can always get in touch with someone and snap a neat picture of the kids and you somewhere cool.

 

4) I would suggest having some some toys (small stuff you don't mind losing-not you child's favorite action figure, etc...) so you can something to provide depending on the length of the run.

 

5) Try to remember diapers, wipes, just in case....

 

6) Sunscreen and a hat (warm and/or baseball-depending on season) to block sun

 

7) It is also nice to have some small books/magazines, so they can view and ask questions

 

8) It is also nice to have a plan/goal with the kids so you can "share" the experience, saying that we are going to run to the "this location", look for it.

 

9) Think of games to play with the kids, I like "I Spy", such a great game and interesting what they find.

 

10) Don't be afraid to make deals with the kids, such as I will run now and we can stop at the playground for you guys/girls to play at the end of the run or we can run the last 1 mile together back to the house.

Tent helpers

Jun 20 | Nikki Kimball: Dancing in Mud - The DC 50 course gets interesting…

Nikki Kimball recently placed first in the Washington DC Endurance Challenge Gore-Tex 50 Mile, and she is getting ready for Western States 100 this weekend. Nikki is a three-time Western States champion and placed third last year. Here is her take on the latest race and why she'll be running #WS100 with a broken hand.

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I love each North Face Challenge Race I’ve run.  The flavor of venues vary from site to site, the trails range from technical to well groomed, and some courses climb and descend relentlessly while others follow rather flat topographical lines.  2012 was the first year since the series began in which I had not planned to run a single TNF challenge until December.  My planned races and record attempts ate every minute of vacation time from my work as a physical therapist.  I simply could not escape the clinic another day.

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My ultra season started with the Transvulcania 50 mile race in La Palma, Canary Islands on May 12, and continued 8 days later with another Skyrunning race in Zegama, Spain.  The first race went decently.  I felt good, but I wasn’t quite into race mode yet.  In Zegama I started to feel great about the halfway point, despite some lingering fatigue from the previous weekend.  Then, just as I started to get a bit cocky about my performance and more comfortable with my first truly technical trail race in years, I planted my right hand onto the ground at full speed.  Having gloves on, I couldn’t actually see the broken bones, and figured I merely sprained a finger.  Endorphins mask pain quite nicely, after all, and I did not feel much discomfort.  So I finished the second half of the race without thinking much of my hand, aside from the minor frustration of not being able to use it to open gel packs or otherwise assist with my regular fueling.  But hey, I was in Basque country playing on rocks and shin-deep mud, on a well-marked course lined with frenetic, boisterous fans: there was nothing I’d rather have been doing. 

And what does a mountain race in northern Spain have to do with a 50 mile event near the capital of the United States?  

Well, upon my return from nearly 2 weeks away, I was naturally scheduled to work a bit extra to make up for my time abroad.  As luck (bad or good, depending on one’s view) would have it, x-rays showed a displaced spiral fracture of a long bone in my hand and a lengthy, but quite stable fracture in my finger.  Opting against surgery, as the permanent damage is strictly cosmetic, I chose the course of five or so weeks immobilization: no writing, no lifting, no manual therapy.  Thus began my first true vacation in over a decade, and it only cost a couple orthopedist co-pays.

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A broken hand prevents a lot of activities: cleaning, working as a P.T., writing, yard work…  However, it does not impede running much at all.  Upon this discovery I entered The North Face Challenge 50, D.C., the one trail course in the series I had yet to run.  I did not expect much going in.  It was my third ultra in four weeks and the D.C. course has less climbing than any other Endurance Challenge 50 (and I have not been running flat sections of races well over the last few years).  I simply wanted to use the race as training for Western States 100 three weeks hence.  I needed to figure out how my fueling and running would work out given the addition of a wrist/hand splint to my running kit, and running a 50 miler before WS 100 would help me do that.

Ultramarathons rarely go completely to plan.  I’m sure most local runners, having trained a bit on the trail, did not expect the entire out-and-back piece of the lollipop course to be covered in mud.  I imagine most of us planned on a smooth, fast ½ marathon to start and end our 50 mile trot that day.  Then the nearly 2 inches of rain the afternoon before the race formed one of the more incredible storms I’ve experienced.  And it certainly made the race more, well, interesting (aka slow, sloppy, generally fun).

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I started the race thinking of my two main goals, “keep the pace under control, and do not fall.”  So I naturally started out faster than planned and within 3 miles belly-slid like a kid on a Slip-and Slide.  6% of the race complete and I had already broken the only two rules I had made for myself.  But I felt great.  For the first time in years, I felt fast on the flat sections (between mud-pits, that is).  I wanted to run hard, and I didn’t feel the fatigue of back to back ultras preceding this race.  So I ran hard, not going with my initial plan to save myself for WS 100.  As for my hand, the volunteers at each aid station were, as always, incredibly helpful.  They would open gel packs and put the lid back on my bottle for me.  With their help, the splint in no way hindered my performance.  In fact, given the few falls I managed to add to my day’s activities, it likely saved me from serious re-injury.  I did not initially intend to test the efficacy of my splint in protecting the fractures, but I’ve got to say, the piece did a fantastic job. 

Looking at the course map I had some reservations about the middle 3-lap section of the course.  Each lap consisted of two out-and-back sections as well as some looping around on single track.  That said, the course here was very well marked, and wide enough on the out-and-back sections to allow plenty of room to pass.  I loved that I could see other competitors frequently, finding myself able to cheer on some individuals many times during the running of this section.  Additionally, I could assess my place in the race and see some of the men’s race unfold.  And, naturally, the rocky section looking down on the Potomac, swollen, churning and mud-brown from the rain, added a beautiful sprinkling of technical merit to an otherwise fast (on dry years), though pretty course. 

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I ran the final ½ marathon with different 50km and 50 mile runners, alternately chatting about the beauty of the course, and cursing the deep, slick mud which seemed to be wearing on all of us as we fatigued.  Upon finishing, I felt great, but realized I had raced it hard, rather than treating it as a training run.  Then I looked down at my body and my splint, both packed with mud.  As I said, races rarely go as planned.

 

Jun 19 | Countdown to 2012 Western States 100

This weekend in Squaw Valley, California, runners will gather to participate in one of the most well-known and challenging ultramarathons in the world -- The Western States 100. Steeped in a rich history, Western States is often considered  a "Who's Who" of the running community. Last year, The North Face athletes swept six of the top 10 podium spots and this year the prospects look great for the eight of our endurance athletes who are preparing to run this season, including 2011 Men's Endurance Challenge Championship winner and 2011 Western States second place finisher Mike Wolfe. Four-time Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc winner Lizzy Hawker will also be making her Western States 100 debut. 

The course runs along the famed Western States Trail ascending from the Squaw Valley floor (elevation 6,200 feet) to Emigrant Pass (elevation 8,750 feet), a climb of 2,550 vertical feet in the first 4½ miles. From the pass, following the original trails used by the gold and silver miners of the 1850’s, runners travel west, climbing another 15,540 feet and descending 22,970 feet before reaching Auburn.

Most of the trail passes through remote and rugged territory, accessible only to hikers, horses and helicopters -- and of course, runners.

Check back this week and next for updates on all of our Western States athletes, race results and athlete race reports. Follow the conversation online with #WS100, and as always, check-in with our friend Bryon Powell and team at iRunFar for the most comprehensive, in-depth video and from-the-trail coverage. 

Mike Wolfe WSMike Wolfe crossing the finish line in second place in 2011

 

Jun 17 | Honnold Breaks Nose Speed Ascent Record

Honnold

Alex Honnold hit another big one Sunday, setting a new record for speed, along with climbing partner Hans Florine, on the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite.

Honnold and Florine’s time was 2:23:51, besting the previous record of 2:36:45 set by Sean Leary and Dean Potter in November 2010.

According to Honnold, he’s looking forward to more climbing this summer.

 

Jun 14 | HIKING: MEDICINE FOR THE BODY, MIND, AND SOUL

Cedar Blog 1On the route  Iron Hawk on El Capitan

“In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” –John Muir

It’s a beautiful world we live in, and we are only here for a limited time, so the way I see it, we should explore it while we can.   It’s easy to get caught up in the fast pace of daily life and forget stillness, but when we slow down, breathe, and explore the natural world, we become happier people.  We all should take a hike now and again.  It might seem like hard work at the time, or perhaps you will be immersed and joyous in the moment, but regardless, you will be happier in the end.  The trail, the trees, the mountains, the grass, the flowers.  So here is to taking a month, a week, a weekend, a day, or an hour even, to throw backpack on and move one foot in front of the other, breath by breath, through your park, forest, or mountain range!

Cedar Blog 3A wild view of the iconic Half Dome after which The North Face Logo was patterned.

“Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain, or spend a week in the woods.  Wash your spirit clean." –John Muir

I have a lot of backpacks, and I love them like friends.  There is a certain simplicity and freedom they enable, and each one in my gear closet serves its unique purpose, and represents its own type of adventure; day hiking, climbing, mountaineering, backpacking, or even picnicking!  I have a ten year old Prophet in there that is all but retired.  Call me sentimental, but I could never get rid of it, that prophet is an old trusty friend that saw me through some of the greatest adventures of my life.  I think that a lot of the worlds real problems could be solved with a backpack and hard hike in the woods…maybe I’m just a hopeless, optimistic romantic.

Cedar Blog 4Hiking through the Arctic Circle, Baffin Island

“The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.” –John Muir 

But…maybe I’m a Realistic, Hopeful, Romantic!  A quick Google search confirmed what I knew in my heart…hiking improves your quality of life.  Research shows that brisk hiking can reduce the risk of developing type-2 diabetes significantly!  A study of over 60,000 men and women over an 18-year period suggested those who engage in increased physical activity such as hiking are forty percent less likely to have a stroke.  Another study of people with memory problems found in a four-year follow up that those who expended the most energy walking were 27 percent less likely to suffer from dementia.  Data from the National Walkers Health Study found those that took the longest weekly walks were morel likely to use less medication!  Did I mention that hiking lowers your blood pressure and cholesterol, trims your waistline, and improves your mood! See?! Hiking is good medicine!

Cedar Blog 2Approaching Half Dome the hard way

 “I never saw a discontented tree.  They grip the ground as though they liked it, and though fast rooted they travel about as far as we do.” –John Muir

There is a power in stillness.  By calmly taking our time, we get to our destination quicker than by rushing.  I was lucky to learn the importance of tranquility and being present in every step at an early age on a backpack trip through the Sierras with my dad.  By surrounding ourselves with beauty, our perception of reality changes.  It’s a lesson I have forgotten and relearned more than once.  We all have moments closer and further away from the ultimate truth and wonder of life, but without question, I am always happier in the woods.

CEDAR BLOG YOUNGOn an early expedition into the Sierras with my Father. 

“The Mountains are calling and I must go.” –John Muir

So on that note, I think I’m going to throw a couple Clif Bars and a bottle of water in my Verto and walk the walk!  I hope that everyone reading this has an adventurous summer filled with beauty, nature, exploration, and lots and lots of hiking!!!

Cedar Blog 5Patagonia Scrambling

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