Jul 30 | Mt. Kinabalu Expedition: Hard Routes at 4000m
By The North Face
Yuji Hirayama, Daniel Woods, James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini have just returned from their expedition to Mt. Kinabalu (4095m) in Borneo, Malaysia. The plan for their expedition was to establish some of the hardest high altitude sport routes in the world, and thanks to the incredible weather that allowed the team to climb almost every day, they had a very productive time! The team spent the last month living close to the summit of the magnificent mountain, making each day the one-hour hike towards the summit plateau to climb, bolt and explore. They came back with a fine selection of routes that each represents the individual styles and strengths of its creator. The team opened over 20 new routes up to Fr 9a+.
Highlights include:
Yuji Hirayama - Pogulian Do Koduduo Fr 9a and Metis 120m 5-pitch E6 6b / 5.12r
James Pearson – Excalibur Fr 8c+ and a flash of Alanga 120m 3-pitch Fr 8b
Caroline Ciavaldini – Apuri Manan Fr 8b and Alanga 120m 3-pitch Fr 8b
Daniel Woods – Tinipi Fr 9a+ and Enter The Void Fr 8c
Here are Caroline and James’ first diary entries from this unique trip.
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Caro, 13th of June
James just handed us tea and “ice cream” oreos. All of us, climbers, staff, are hidden in our sleeping bags, fighting not to sleep, asking for stories. It’s 1 p.m., we arrived in the Sayat Sayat hut, the highest one, at 3660m, at eight this morning. It took five hours yesterday to hike from 1800m, then one hour today. I am ashamed to have had the benefit of porters: as a climber, I am not quite used to paying somebody 30E to carry my heavy bag pack on their back. One flat panel of wood, ropes as shoulder straps, another rope around the forehead, here they go. Technically, it’s mountain tork, our sponsor, who paid them. So I am ashamed, but so thankful. This last walk in the morning, I had to stop every 5m, walk up the steps with my hands too. As deep as I may try to breathe, I don’t seem to get what’s needed to move.
Now it’s overly windy, misty, and rainy. Not a time to go explore the untouched faces of every peak around us. Yuji tells us with his relaxing accent: “here, don’t plan, maybe in a bit the weather will clear, maybe tomorrow…”
Right now, I am completely fine with waiting. I am realizing that Kinabalu will be a real expedition. Cold, wet, tiring, and so windy… and in this conditions we plan to bolt, trad climb… Something really hard. Part of me wonders, what the hell am I doing here. I will surely get sick, I will be tired, cold, scared. But I will come out happy, and proud to have been part of that expedition. I know it. Because I felt the same on my previous little adventures with James and The North Face. But for now, I hear a lot the little shy girl in me that struggles to keep warm even in the hut. Maybe if I recover a bit, acclimatize; a warrior in me may wake up.
Caroline on Alanga Fr 8b (5.13d)
James, 16th of June
Three days into the trip, well it’s actually more like seven, but today is the third climbing day. Bodies are beaten, but minds are getting stronger. It’s funny how just a few days ago, I would have said the exact opposite, as we arrived at the base of the mountain well rested, but a little apprehensive.
Climbing and living at 4000m is something new to me, and coming from sea level to the top in just a day made the experience even worse. My head is still aching and my lungs still screaming now, but on the first few nights it was hellish.
Walking up through a torrential downpour did little to help the situation, wet clothes that never dry make you clod to your bones. Wind, rain, how can we ever climb in a place like this? But then the clouds clear and the sun shines, you see the most incredible landscape you can imagine. A mountain of granite, twisted and sculpted into formations from your dreams, with overhanging towers and faces as far as you can see, just waiting for their first bolts.
Yuji has been here before and so we know the score. Patience is the name of the game, the weather can never be trusted, meaning a lot of time in the hut, then making the most of the small windows through the mist. He tries to explain us how things work up here, and what our schedule may be like. The 5 a.m. wakeup call sounds horrendous at first, but when you realize it is only 7 p.m. and your eyes are starting to close, perhaps it is not so bad.
Yuri resting before the Crux on Pogulian Do Koduduo Fr9a (5.14d)
The first time on top of the mountain, it’s hard to take it all in. It’s so vast, so three-dimensional, with towers shooting off towards the heavens, and dark gullies seeming to fall away to hell. Yuji explains the location of his existing routes and shares the secret of his projects, we spy a few new things of our owns, all that remains is to start.
James passing the crux on Excalibur Fr8c+ (5.14c)
I have bolted before and understand the fundamentals, but the everything, really knowing what to do, and the little things that make it work well, only come with practice. However in comparison to Daniel and Caroline, I am a master and so I do my best live up to their hopes, and teach them what (little) I know. Within a few days everyone is firmly in the swing of things. Everyone has found their piece of inspiration, thrown in some steel work, and stared trying the moves. Like bolting, climbing at altitude is something that also needs learning. So different from climbing near the sea; not only does the slightliest tricky sequence have you panting for breath, but I also find myself feeling much more intimidated than usual, worrying that my feet and hands unexpectedly slip, despite the amazingly grippy rock.
Speaking of the rock… The best quality granite, formed into every shape you can imagine, offer a seemingly endless playground for the (slightly) adventurous. We are essentially running around, cherry picking the best, hardest, most inspiring lines from the whole plateau, and there is more than we could ever hope to blot. If you extent things to the easier grades or the more difficult to reach areas, the potential is there for several life times. After a few days we all become more accustomed to living at altitude. No longer are we out of breath during evenings in the hut, and we start to become aware, some more painfully than others about the importance of Sun cream and moisturizer! Of all the routes we have bolted, the majority have been freed, leaving some of the hardest routes in the area. The difficulty when bolting is not just to choose a beautiful line, but to find something close to your limit, but still climbable. The difference between possible and impossible is something very small!
Life in the hut is easy and enjoyable, thanks in a big part to the involvement of Mountain Tork – a Malaysian Adventure Tourism operator, and our guides on the mountain. They have taken care of everything, leaving us free to focus only on the climbing. The amount of planning and preparation on their part is simply outstanding and it is safe to say without their help, this expedition may not be possible, certainly not in the same way.
Yuri on the start of Tinipi Fr9a+ (5.14d-5.15a)
Caro, 17th of June
Yesterday was a great day… I had bolted a short route on the first day. It turned out to have quite incredible mouves, very precise footwork and… a double dyno! I didn’t expect it. And figuring out the methods, I knew I couldn’t do it. So I gave it to James, who made it first try after working the methods. I was so happy! My first route ever was a success, 8b, Apuri Manan.
It means sensations. But then Daniel and James pushed me to keep on trying the moves… And third day, I found the precise footwork to do the jump. And I made it! I was so surprised. I always give up when I can’t do a move of a route. Interesting to discover the land of projecting. Today was a good day as well because James found his project. The Double Arête. While he was bolting, after a precarious trad approach to the top, he really wasn’t sure that the route would work. But the in the day he made all the mouves. You should have seen his smile when he came down. Happy.
Caroline, Yuji and James on Metis E6 (5.12)
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You can read the whole trip diary on Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson’s blogs:
http://www.carolineciavaldini.com/new-english.html
All photos by: The North Face / Mitci S.



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