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Alpinist | Jimmy Chin

Jimmy ChinJimmy Chin grew up in southern Minnesota, wondering what life would be like if the landscape weren’t so flat. Jimmy is an accomplished alpine climber and photographer. Jimmy says, "In the end, I hope that images from my experiences and expeditions will not only inspire people, but also help me reach a greater goal. Through exploration, photography and immersing myself in cultures far from home, I hope to expand the awareness of our beautiful planet…our responsibility to conserve and protect it and to offer a new perspective on our own culture and who we are."

Oct 12 | MERU EXPEDITION 2011 - DISPATCH 5

After twelve days on the route, we summited the Sharks Fin at 140pm on October 2nd.

Often starting at night, we would climb through the day and back into the night, lost between light and darkness. Time and existence blurred. Always fighting upwards. Always pushing the line. We were momentarily confused when there was finally no place further left to go. Exhaustion and joy canceled each other out on the summit. We were numb for the descent. Another battle. Cold. Survival. After making it back down to our bivy in the sky, we spent a final night at over 20,000ft before we embarked on another 20 hour odyssey of endless rappels. Beefy anchors slowly waned through the day and night until eventually we were all anchoring in and rapping off single pieces. We would all stare, will the single piece of gear to hold as the first person would begin rappelling. "Don't rap off the end of the rope" became the mantra.

Jimmy Jug
The sharp awareness of the void below began to dull as we dumped more and more elevation with each release of the brakehand on our rap devices, jolting ourselves down the ropes. Just like we wondered if there was a top to this thing, we began to wonder if there was a bottom. Down and down we went, through the day, through the night with wet semi frozen gloves. Exhaustion was setting in. Until, finally, we reached the lower snow slopes. As the angle eased off a bit, we down climbed. Slowly at first, facing in, kicking each step as carefully as possible, knowing we were getting sloppy and careless. Then, eventually facing out, stumbling, and soon, running downward towards freedom. We tripped, slid and fell shamelessly down the slope. Twelve days in our harnesses. We finally crossed the final bergshrund dropped the harnesses on the ground. We tossed packs, gear slings, cams, ice axes, screws, everything onto the snow. We were back in the horizontal world and finally free of the Sharks Fin.

Summit Smiles
Low point: Falling through the portaledge when it snapped in half on the fourth day at 19,000+ ft.

High point: Now

We're back in Delhi a few pounds lighter literally and figuratively. And, we have a few new stories. We're looking forward to sharing some of them when we return.

Starting the travel sequence home tonight.

Thanks for following. Here are a few more pics to chew on.

Final Camp
Jimmy Jug II
Rad Lead
Rad Ledge
Rad Ridge
Renan Rap
Renan Rap II

Oct 11 | Shangri-La: Living for the Half Hour

After staying in camp for three days, observing the weather patterns, the only information we could glean for certain was that the weather here changes every half hour. We hadn’t seen anything super nasty yet, just unsettled waves of rain, hail, snow, thunder and an occasional blast of sunshine. So, on the fourth day, when we woke up to high gray skies and no wind, we headed up towards the mountain. Our plan was to grab our gear stash, carry it up to the ridge and establish camp at around 17,000ft. With light packs, we had reached our cache at noon, loaded up our packs (and I mean LOADED our packs) and set off to put in the boot pack up the 1500ft face up to the west ridge. Once on the ridge, shouldering our cumbersome and awkward packs, we climbed and carefully navigated the knife edge ridge of snow and rock. There was huge exposure on either side. The snowy hanging glacier at 17,000ft seemed like the best place to set our high camp. With a steller sunset and approaching full moon, we chose to spend the night, hope for clear weather and go for the summit in the morning. We cozied up in our tent and started melting water for the following day. We set our alarms for 4am, hoping for a clear day.

More soon.
Ingrid, Giulia, Kasha, Jimmy

Photography: ©Jimmy Chin

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Oct 02 | Shangri-La: The Expedition Life

Embracing the rhythms of the weather is part of expedition life.  When the weather suggests you stay curled up in your sleeping bag, you listen.  Needless to say, we didn’t end up heading up the mountain.  The two days we’ve now spent in base camp due to unsettled weather have been a welcome rest after much travel and also given us a chance to observe the mountain…a good thing, considering one of the faces we talked about climbing and skiing ripped out to the buried rock below.  Our days have passed catching up on sleep and getting glimpses of the mountain between pulses of rain, snow, and graupel.  It’s always helpful and interesting getting to know the moods and personality of a new mountain in a new range.  The weather has been shifting hour to hour, powerful and beautiful.  The Italian (Giulia) has been cooking up tortellini and making friends with the local fauna; Jimmy has been busy eating all of the cookies; Kasha is practicing yoga between her quick sunbathing sessions during the short bursts of sunshine, and Ingrid is catching up on a backlog of New Yorkers.

Ingrid, Giulia, Kasha, Jimmy

Sep 30 | Shangri-La: Quick and Dirty Update

Short on power, so here is a quick and dirty update....Wish us luck.

After two days of following our gear laden horses, jumping streams and wandering through high alpine meadows, the sharp peaks of the Minya Konka range began to emerge from behind the foothills. Ingrid was stopped in her tracks as she peered up at one of the first snow and ice covered spear shaped peaks. We gained stoke and momentum over the next few hours as the mountains gradually revealed themselves.

When we finally glimpsed Redommaine, we stopped to stare. The northwest face looked incredible, steep with snow spines draped across its flanks. The entire face was guarded by a massive hanging serac…..The west ridge looked promising and we scanned it for an entry point. Cracked glaciers and icefalls surrounded the bottom of the mountain. We continued on for a few more hours trying to get our Tibetan horseman to take our gear as close to the peak as possible. We rounded a bend and found a gleaming lake nestled below our peak. Amazing, an alpine lake reminiscent of the high Sierras, but with a massive glaciated 20,000+ft peak on the other side.

So far the weather had been cooperating. We set up basecamp around 14,500ft and planned our next few days. Today, after a major gear explosion and laughing at the absurd amount of gear we had in tow, we sorted and packed sleeping bags, tents, skis, crampons, ropes ice screws etc, we headed up towards the mountain to scout a route and carry gear to a drop off point below the real climbing. We're in full charging mode trying to get up before the weather turns. Not much time to acclimitize....We have an alpine start tomorrow to begin the climbing.

The route looks exciting and the skiing will be real. We’re hoping to set one camp on the ridge and make a big push while the weather holds. Keeping our fingers crossed that the splitter weather stays for a couple more days.

Ingrid, Kasha, Giulia and Jimmy

Photography: ©Jimmy Chin

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Sep 26 | Shangri-La: A Couple of Pics

Photography: ©Jimmy Chin

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Sep 18 | Shangri-La: In Search of...

Kasha and Thupten,our Tibetan guide, looking over maps of the Kawa Karpo Mountains.

Ingrid, Giulia, Kasha, Jimmy

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Sep 17 | Shangri-La: Lijiang

Kasha, Giulia, and Ingrid checking out the ancient city of Lijiang.

Ingrid, Giulia, Kasha, Jimmy

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Sep 17 | Shangri-La: The Journey Begins

We've touched down. Talk to you soon!

Ingrid, Giulia, Kasha, Jimmy

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