Running for six days across the Gobi Desert layered the acute challenge of a hardcore endurance event between two other notorious stress factors: harsh climatologic unpredictability and drastic topographic variability. In other words, hell. Bluntly put, the Gobi Desert will pound the crap out of you. Even the most prepared contester is no match for the awesome power of the Gobi.
And I was hardly all that prepared. Having just completed a 700-mile + run down the coast of California, there was little time to regroup. With too few days between races (two, to be exact), I’d boarded the first of three flights which would take me to the great Gobi on rebelliously wobbly knees. Fifty-one travel hours later, I arrived in the remote outpost of Kashgar, deep in the heart of the Asian continent, slightly beat up, and considerably disoriented. Rest would have been nice.
But the next morning was the mandatory gear check (in which your equipment, food and supplies are assessed and weighed). No rest for the weary.
During the 4 Desert races, you must carry everything you need on your back for the week (with the exception of water, which is provided in rations at night). My bag weighed-in at 9.2 kg, a little heavier than I would have liked, though my mind wasn’t thinking clearly enough to weed unnecessary items out.
The next six days would be a mixture of joy, pain, elation and agony. The running sucked, I have to be honest. It hurt from step one. There just wasn’t enough recovery time between races, and too little sleep combined with too much jetlag. I admit, in this instance I bit off way more than I could chew. And, rightfully so, the Gobi showed no mercy in chewing me up and spitting me out the other side.
That said, after a few days of misery and suffering, a startling transformation took place. I started to view my haggard condition as a blessing in disguise, because I became less self-consumed with my own flagging athletic performance and began turning outward, truly appreciating the grand splendor of the rugged surroundings, rather than constantly doing battle with them.
The Gobi Desert is encircled by towering snow-covered peaks, some rising more than 25,000’ into the heavens. The stark contrast of the mountains in the background provided a rich visual contrast to the barren desert landscape that we ran across during many sections.
The plains gave way to rolling foothills, and we ran through villages where young children in colorfully adorned clothing waved as we passed. We ran by rivers and streams, crossing many. We ran up ridges and crossed over bridges. We climbed a series of ladders to reach Heavens Gate, a remote and mythical landmark high in the mountains and discovered only recently. I was present for each of these experiences, my head clear and in the moment, engaged and lucent, not thinking about what place I was in or how I would fair in today’s stage. In so many ways, it was liberating.
When we crossed that final finish line on the sixth day of racing, which came startlingly easy after bowing to the might of the Gobi, I clasped hands with two of the Chinese athletes from The North Face Hong Kong (Siu Keung Tsang & Ka Wai Wong) and we crossed together, united as one. It was a cherished moment, and the perfect conclusion to a week of deep emotional swings and enlightened spiritual awakenings in the great Gobi Desert.
- Dean Karnazes
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