Sports

Jan 27 | Climbing and Filmmaking, a Life of Passion.

When I went on a climbing trip to Brazil in 2009, with Renan Ozturk, I had just bought a video camera and loaded Final Cut Pro onto my rickety laptop.  A month later, I was loving Brazil so much, I ended up staying an extra two months, and shot and climbed the entire time.  When I came home I had SO much footage, and decided I should try to put together a short film to enter into film festivals.  This was the beginning of what has become a career within a career.  I've been lucky to shoot short films in Australia, Malaysia, all around the western united states since then!  Here is Pra Caramba!

 

Now three years later, I am still passionate about climbing and filmmaking.  I sometimes struggle with finding the balance between these two passions but in the end they are complimentary, and whether I am hanging off the side of a cliff filming or climbing, I feel like I'm living my own personal version of the DREAM!!!  Here is my most recent work, that features fellow TNF athlete Sam Elias defying gravity.

 

Dec 13 | 2011 TNF Athlete Summit, Sayulita Mexico

The North Face's Global Athlete Team is one of the most unique and cutting edge Professional Athlete Teams in the world, with some of the best climbers, skiers, and ultra-runners in the universe all working together. The team spans the globe representing Europe, Asia, South America, and us here in North America.

The North Face supports a classic cast of characters in their dreams to push and live within the sport. Each year TNF hosts an "Athlete Summit," which is essentially a team meeting, that brings all of these talented global athletes to one place, to talk about expeditions, product, and most importantly to bond as a team. I have attended all of the Athlete Summits since their inception eight years ago, and have become good friends with skiers and runners who I would never have otherwise met.

This year the Summit was in Sayulita Mexico, a beautiful little surf town near Puerto Vallarta. Call it a work meeting or a paid vacation... I can say that at times like the Summit I feel very fortunate to have climbed for The North Face for the last eight years. Sometimes I have to pinch myself and ask, "is this really my job?" 


It feels more like a family then a team really! On our third day, in Mexico with all our meetings done, we had an activity day, and I opted to go snorkeling instead of surfing, which turned out to be a great decision, as our crew of runners, skiers, and climbers saw Dolphins, Whales, and a host of beautiful sea birds. It was one of those magical playful moments when you really appreciate and feel a part of the natural world. Inspired by Sage Cattabriga Alosa one of TNF's top skiers who had showed me his workflow for shooting and editing short films on his IPhone, I was psyched to give it a whirl, so here it is a short film about our adventure, shot, edited and uploaded, using only my iphone! Technology has come a long way!!!

 

Dec 05 | Snow Safety :: The Inside Scoop with the Hans Saari Fund

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NOTHING is better for teenageritis than spending time in the backcountry. Skiing, climbing, backpacking, hunting, whatever it takes to get kids into the mountains, burning off energy and having a blast. For the past five years The North Face has supported the Hans Saari Memorial Fund (www.hansfund.org) with annual Youth Ski Mountaineering Camps in the Teton Mountains of Wyoming. A major part of these youth camps focuses on staying alive in avalanche terrain.

 

If only I was 15 right now.

 

I became obsessed about the mountains at age 11. By crazy luck my parents encouraged and supported my mountaineering. Sometimes they loaded my pack on Friday night and shipping me off for the weekend with the local alpine club. Throughout high school I drove to the mountains every weekend, driving five hours each way from the wheat fields of eastern Washington. If I didn’t make it to the mountains because of rain, or botched plans, I did the regular teenage things: parties, driving around and returning to class on Monday feeling drained. The mountains were everything, and they still are. Since then my life has become dedicated to the mountains and I’ve become an internationally certified mountain guide, IFMGA. Whether working or not working I spend all my free time in the mountains. What else would I do?

 

I wish every kid could experience the mountains like I did. The problem is mountains are known to be dangerous. In winter that danger increases with avalanche hazards. With the advent of wide skis and the opening of ski area boundaries, youngsters have an ever-increasing ability to easily place themselves in harms way.

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Mountain professionals know that avalanches are the single most difficult aspect of the mountains. Nothing compares. Not climbing a 20,000-foot mountain. Not skiing 50 degrees. Not going 30 hours without sleep on a mountain face. Nothing is as dangerous as being in avalanche terrain and not knowing.

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The good thing is that avalanches follow some basic principles. If kids learn and follow these principles they can play safer in the mountains than at home. Avalanche safety for kids begins with learning how to use avalanche companion rescue gear, just in case something goes wrong. To avoid getting into bad situations we teach kids how to observe the mountains for dangerous avalanche conditions. These dangerous conditions are called red flags and include factors such as wind transporting snow, whumphing, shooting cracks, and terrain where avalanches are most likely to occur. Finally we learn about that ugly monster called The Human Factor. The most important Human Factor skill is knowing when to call it a day and turn around when the avalanche red flags are screaming DANGER. Turning around even when the sun is shining and the powder is deep.

 

Teaching kids these avalanche safety skills is fun and doable, but they need the opportunity. The Hans Saari Youth Ski Mountaineering Camps provide ski mountaineering mentorship from mountain masters such as Andrew McLean, Bean Bowers, Nat Patridge and Bela Vadasz. Students are taken into the mountains and taught the skills necessary to enjoy a lifetime of enjoyment in mountains. The focus is helping young skiers stay safe while skiing hard and learning about the dangers that exist in the backcountry.

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This year's Teton Camp is scheduled for mid-June 2012. For more information on participating with the Jr. Ski Mountaineering Youth Camps log onto www.HansFund.org

 

Joe Stock - Hans Saari Memorial Fund Board Member

IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

Nov 28 | Snow Safety Month :: The Inside Scoop with Protect Our Winters

Pow

Living in Colorado, one plague I dread every spring is the threat of dirty snow.

Blowing in from southeastern Utah, dirt poses two problems.

The first is personal danger, as dirt forms a weak layer and poorly bonds with newer snowfall, resulting in a sketchy layer buried in the snowpack as spring tours come into play.  Simply put – dirt equals danger.

CSAS 2009-04-15_005
Center for Snow and Avalanche Studies 

The second problem dirt causes is irregular melting and accelerated run off. Irregular melting forms sun cups which wreak havoc on spring corn cycles and have spawned an entirely new vocabulary with my friends. What was formerly thought of as buttercakes or reconstituted spring pow turns into frozen ocean and junkyard chunder. Ever had a ski partner go down with a broken rib from a fall on frozen chunder landing on their beacon?  Not pretty, I can tell you.

Slides #1
 Dirt and avalanches

Beyond the selfish context as a backcountry skier, dirt poses a much bigger issue than just personal safety. The Center for Snow Studies based in Silverton, Colorado has been focused on this problem for years, as it tracks to a much larger macro issue  - that of climate change.

Ski line #2
 Note to self, ski the clean snow

The dirt that blows in on the front end of Colorado storms in the form of apocalyptic billowing red clouds is at least in part due to the fact that the southwestern US has been under prolonged drought for years now.  Climate models show we're likely to only see this increase as the planet warms, turning the southwest, eventually, into a dust bowl. While dust on snow has multiple causes (grazing, off road vehicle use, drilling impacts, agriculture), drought only exacerbates the impacts.

The kicker here is scientific research that culminated in a story in the Los Angeles Times by Eryn Brown (September 21, 2010), that shows dirt on snow reduces the amount of water flowing in to the Colorado River by a conservative estimate of 5%. What does 5% mean? 5% translates to over 250 billion gallons annually which equates to twice the amount of water a city such as Denver or Las Vegas uses in a year and equal to what Los Angeles consumes in 18 months.

Indy Pass #3
 Independence Pass, CO. Snow to the left goes to the Atlantic, to the right the Pacific

Dirt also reduces snow’s albedo (reflectivity) by 30%, increasing melting by 50%. It’s akin to putting a black’80s concert t-shirt on during your next sunny spring tour. That rapid melt exposes surface vegetation earlier in the spring which consumes the runoff prior to reaching the river. Additionally, the faster decline of the snowpack negates the positive impact that traditional slower melts have in terms of cooling the atmosphere by reflecting heat.

So, next time you consider burning an old pair of rock skis as a tribute to the snow god Ullr add a few good words to keep the dirt away. And be sure to make good decisions, whether schralping pow in the backcountry with friends or in terms of consumption of plastic, energy and gas.

Penn Newhard is a Protect Our Winters Board member, Partner at Backbone Media and aspiring ski tech for his alpine racing kids.

 

 

Nov 07 | Snow Safety Month :: The Inside Scoop with Ski New Hampshire

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As you become a stronger skier/rider inevitably you’ll end up hitting the woods and exploring gladed runs.  Especially on powder days you’ll find aggressive skiers and riders venturing further away from the heart of the ski area.  Often that’s where you’ll still find sweet lines and powder stashes even late in the day.  It’s easy to let the adrenaline take over and just charge down terrain that you dream of without thinking.  Times like that are when you need to take account of things.
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First and foremost, if you’re getting off the beaten path don’t do it alone.  Ideally you want a group of three.  If someone takes a bad spill and is banged up you then have one friend to go get help while the other friend stays to give aid to the injured skier/rider, especially in case they lose consciousness.

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As simple as it sounds, don’t explore terrain you aren’t familiar with.  There’s no explanation for the feeling of hitting the end of a run and realizing you are in a totally foreign location.  Hiking through deep snow is a disaster, especially when disoriented, don’t put yourself in that spot.  Stick with someone who knows exactly where they’re going or ask around to educate yourself.  If you aren’t 100% sure, stick to runs you know.  A cell phone in your pocket is not an excuse to be stupid.

LoonPow3921

Keep it Safe and Keep it Fun! 

http://www.skinh.com

Hear what The North Face athletes have to say about Snow Safety:  http://www.thenorthface.com/en_US/exploration/know-boundaries/?stop_mobi=yes

Oct 19 | Fresh Off The Boat

While Lucho and I are in Malaysia we are raising money for Big City Mountaineers an organization committed to getting teens from urban areas into the wilderness. Lucho and I are both huge believers in the transformational power of nature. Please CLICK HERE to donate! It's tax deductible! DRAGONS HORNS FROM AFAR

Wow, what a whirlwind! Only four days after leaving the states Lucho and I have managed to summit the unclimbed higher but smaller Dragons horn on Tioman Island here in Malaysia. By sheers luck we have managed a summit on our first full day in Malaysia! One of the cruxes of the route was the approach. Basically everything in the jungle has thorns on it, but somehow I had not heard about the humming bird sized wasps. I can now attest that their bites are EXTREMELY PAINFUL! I was attacked by several of them right as we neared the base of the climb. I still have huge red itchy painful welts to prove it. BOAT RIDE

The climbing itself was great…. The rock here on Tioman is impeccable granite with wild water pockets and runnels. And the location on an island overlooking the South China Sea is nothing short of surreal. I’d been craving some adventure the last couple months, and now I was getting a full serving! Pretty much all seven pitches of the route were dangerous, and beautiful, with big runouts on high quality granite, in a plum line for the summit! It rained twice on the route, but right when we would consider bailing the rain would subside. It was a bit like the mountain was toying with us, but in the end welcoming our presence. LUCHO BUSHWACKING

We topped out at sunset and bushwacked to the true summit. It felt magical to know we were the first humans to be at this perch on one of the highest points in Malaysia! Thankfully the vegetation on top of the Dragons Horn represented a whole different ecosystem, and lacked the thorns of the jungle below. I kept a weary eye out for wasps as I climbed a tree to the highpoint and got a never to forgotten view! We Bivied in the bushes at the summit for a couple of hours, in a bed of photo-luminescent leaves! GLOW IN THE DARK LEAVES!!! Cedar HI Climbing

We initially planned to wait until morning to descend, to avoid rappelling and thrashing through the jungle at night, but when the thunder and the lightning woke us up, we decided it was better to begin our descent before things turned wet and epic. Lucho was gripped about the rappels (always the most dangerous part of a climb) but all I could think about was the wasps waiting below. LUCHO CLIMBING

Eight hundred feet of rappelling later we reached the base at first light. It turned out that we were wise to descend when we did, because we spent much of the walk out in a surprisingly violent rainstorm. Now we are worked and satisfied hanging out in the small charming fishing village Mukut, which lies below the horns. Were enjoying the amazing Malaysian food and good mellow island vibes of the locals. ROUTE LINE JPEG

With three more weeks here in Malaysia, Lucho and I are now going to turn our efforts to a new route on the larger Dragons horn... I’m guessing it will be adventurous! We rated our new route on the Unclimbed Dragon’s Horn 5.10X. It’s about a thousand feet of Jungle to the base, eight hundred feet of climbing and three hundred feet of bushwacking to the summit. You should come and do it! Just watch out for the wasps.

Sep 16 | Sage Cattabriga-Alossa Dishes on the Techniques he Uses in TGR's new film "One For The Road"

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The world premiere of Teton Gravity Research's new film "One For The Road" is this Saturday at Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village, Wyo. TGR athletes are trickling in to town for the event and already Ian McIntosh, Erik Roner, Dash Longe and Sage Cattabriga-Alosa have arrived. In the video below, shot "Live From The Field" style, Sage talks about some new techniques TGR used while filming for this year's movie.

 

Learm more about the film and see when One for The Road is coming to your town :

http://www.tetongravity.com/one-for-the-road/tour/.

Aug 24 | UTMB: Pre-Race Interviews (Cont.)

The North Face Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc is right around the corner.  Today we're featuring IRunFar.com's pre-race interview with two of the men of The North Face Endurance Athlete Team, 2010 UTMB Champion Jez Bragg and Mike Wolfe. Check out the full post here. You can also read interviews with two of The North Face women competing in the 103-mile race here.

Dottedline 

As this article goes up, the iRunFar team is on its way to cover the 2011 The North Face Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc. (Well, I’m running it, too.) I know it’s overused, but this very well might be the most competitive 100 mile race in history.

Let’s start with one hell of a rematch – everyone the top five at this year’s Western States will toe the line in Chamonix on Friday. That includes, Kilian Jornet, Mike Wolfe, Nick Clark, Jez Bragg, and Tsuyoshi Kaburaki. To that you can add 2010 Western States champ Geoff Roes2010 The North Face Endurance Challenge champ Miguel Heras2011 Hardrock 100 second place finisher Dakota Jones, two-time Western States champ and The North Face runner Hal Koerner, SEVEN-time Western States champ Scott Jurek, as well as a slew of top Europeans and Asians.

As with all races, not all who entered with be out there on race day. On the American side, the no shows include Anton Krupicka (recovering from a broken leg), Karl Meltzer (back injury), and Dave Mackey (scheduling conflict). I’m sure there are similar withdrawals from the overseas crowd.

 JEZ BRAGG

Jez BraggiRunFar: We last saw you at the Western States 100 in June, where you ran to 4th place and a blazing sub-16 hour finish. How has your summer of recovery and then training been since then? Did you bounce back pretty quickly or take a nice break?

Jez Bragg: The recovery – train – taper phase between Western States and UTMB has been a bit blurred to say the least. I recovered pretty quickly from Western States so I really just threw myself straight into UTMB-specific stuff without too much of a break. I did quite a bit of road cycling and swimming to supplement the running early in the summer, which I always find works well to spin the muscle soreness away. With only 9 weeks between the two races it’s not a lot of time, but I’ve done all I can and I’m definitely feeling ready to go. My real focus has been on building leg strength. I know I can run 100 miles pretty quick, but there are obviously a few lumps and blumps along the way at UTMB, so plenty of long days going up and down the mountains has been top of the agenda.

iRF: It looks like you spent some time training in the Alps during July. Did you train on the course or on similar terrain? How did that go for you? Are you feeling like you’ve been able to train to your potential?

Bragg: I’ve spent quite a bit of time in the mountains over the summer – several days in the Lake District (North West England), a couple of weeks in the Alps and a few days in Snowdonia (North Wales) too. The Alps training was brilliant. I fastpacked the ‘Walkers’ Haute Route’, a high level route between Chamonix and Zermatt, then did a 3-day training weekend with The North Face Team covering the full UTMB route, as well a load of other single training days. As a whole, it’s all gone really well and should pay dividends in the race. It’s a difficult balance to strike with UTMB training. It’s obviously a super hard race so it follows that the training needs to be pretty hardcore too, but it’s so easy to over step the mark and completely trash your legs before you even start. With a bit of luck I’ve got it about right. We’ll soon find out….

iRF: You’re UTMB’s defending champion. What’s it like returning to the race in this way? Are you going back this year to defend your title or to run your own race? Or, do those two goal equate to each other for you?

Bragg: A bit different! Last year was a strange one. It was a great experience which gave me a taste of winning a big race, but it wasn’t the real UTMB race. I’m looking forward to running the full distance and seeing what happens. I will always run my own race and that definitely won’t change just because I’m wearing race number one. I know how to bring out the best in myself and that’s not necessarily battling it out at the front from mile one. It’s a long race and a lot can (and will happen). It’s gonna be very, very interesting.

iRF: One thing we’ve noticed about you is the joy you seem to derive from running in wild places. Is the scenery of the UTMB course at all motivating to you?

Bragg: I love nothing more than running solo in a super remote places. The UTMB course is very inspiring for me. Every time I go round, and I think it’s over ten times now, I’m just in awe of the incredible views – it certainly never gets boring. UTMB is very special race and the biggest reason for that is the beauty of the course and surroundings. When you’re feeling super tired and overwhelmed by the challenge, you just need to catch a glimpse of Mont Blanc or one of the other mountains to draw some extra strength to keep you going.

iRF: The UTMB men’s roster has some serious talent on it. With whom are you looking forward to spending some time out on the course? Who are your top five picks for the men?

Bragg: It’s certainly going to be a great race for the spectator. I enjoyed running with Mike Wolfe last year. We’re very similar in ability and we seemed to spur each other on a lot, so hopefully we will be get chance to run together again. Other than that, any english speaker will do! We all know how friendly the ultra community is, even amongst the elites, so it would be great to get to know some new people through running together out on the course – what better way to get to know someone that going through hell and back out on the UTMB course?! I’m going dodge that top 5 question. I think we know there is a young spaniard who will take some beating…..

MIKE WOLFE

iRunFar: You placed second at the Western States 100, just four minutes back of Kilian Jornet. That must have been a performance you were proud of. How did recovery go for you? And, in the two or so months between WS100 and UTMB, what kind of training have you been up to?

Mike Wolfe: I was definitely happy with my performance at WS this year.  I felt great afterwards.  I think it was the fastest I’ve recovered after a 100.  I was generally fatigued for a bit, but that’s it.  Since WS, I have just been focusing on lots of vertical, in terms of training.  I was able to get in a good hard block of training late July through first couple weeks of August…. we’ll see whether that pays off in a few days, I suppose.

iRF: It looks like you might have raced and won a 50k in Montana earlier this month, the HURL Elkhorn 50K. We imagine it was a UTMB tune-up race. How did you feel during it? Did you experience the results you wanted for the day?

Wolfe: I decided to run the Elkhorn 50km two days prior.  It was during my big block of training, and I did it solely as a “beat myself up” training run.  Elkhorn was right at the tailend of a BIG 12-day block for me.  My legs were fatigued, but I got out of it what I wanted, then put in 11k of vert in 20+ miles the next day.

iRF: You’re obviously quite fit. And, you’ve been to UTMB before, having placed second there last year, so you know all about the Euro-racing scene. Signs point toward this being a pretty spectacular race for you. What do you think?

Wolfe: I try not to ever speculate or go into races with any significant expectations on myself.  I want to run my heart out, and I am excited for the depth of competition. Ultimately, for me, it’s about pushing my personal limits and relishing the love of the mountain environment (and, at UTMB, enjoying the amazing spirit/culture for this race).  The competition always pushes me to explore my limits and that’s what its all about.

iRF: You put up a good fight against Kilian at WS100. What will it be like to compete against him and other top Euros on their home turf?

Wolfe: Tough, and tougher. No doubt about that. In addition to Kilian, there are a bunch of top Euros that will certainly be pushing up front.  They have the advantage of training over here and course knowledge.  But, no excuses.  We are all equal when the race gun goes off.

Aug 16 | On Assignment

As TNF athletes sometimes our biggest job is the tell stories and try to do justice to our fellow athletes. For this piece I worked with our crew at Camp 4 Collective to tell TNF athlete Jimmy's Chin story as he in turn highlights modern day climbing Yosemite for a National Geographic feature story. Thanks for checking it out!  ~renan

Jul 25 | creative video short: "Living The Dream 2"

A standard day in the life of the recovery from a few broken vertebrae and a skull fracture. Even though I'm not technically cleared for psychical therapy yet, the time has finally come for some soul therapy. Best, ~renan and in case you missed it the original Living The Dream:

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