- September 15, 2008
-
Topovan Basecamp
The somber and powerful eastern and northern aspects of Shivling loom large on the southern horizon. Twenty five years since being cognizant of this range and one peak in particular, Meru, I look back on the years that brought me to this place and what the next two weeks will bring.
In 1988, I ventured to Kalidaha peak in the Kishtwar Himal. It was my first expedition to the Himalaya and prior to departing, our young green team met up with Mugs Stump and Steve Quinlin, who were on their way to Meru.
Rambo, the epitome of 80's masculinity and aggression had swept a film mad India. Mugs, with his set jaw and long curling black hair, more than resembled Rambo. His character effused confidence to the point that the petty cab drivers were sure this man was Rambo. It was all good humor and after a meal, we were off to our separate objectives. A late monsoon, or early winter storm enveloped the Himalaya, and Mugs and Steve never made the summit of the East Face of Meru's Shark's Fin.
First given international prominence on the cover of Mountain Magazine, the sweeping granite face alluded to the possibility and high standard that difficult alpine climbing could take. This image launched more than one expedition, mine included.
In 1993, an English team, of Paul Pritchard and Jonny Dawes had a serios attempt on the peak. At their high point, the team dropped a boot. Setback by a minor misha with major consequences, the guys retreated. The Shark's Fin remained elusive. The East Wall called multiple teams to define themselves on it's cold and forbidding vertical and complex landscape.
Mugs died in 1992, on the South Buttress of Denali. With him, the dreams he had for adventurous climbs in the greater ranges. As his understudy, I felt a pull to this peak. More teams tried the wall, some diverting onto the massive snow slope to the north. The direct East Face remained untouched.
In 2003, Bruce Miller, Doug Chabot and I tried the wall, retreating at 2/3's height. We retreated due to deep unconsolidated snow and no big wall gear for the upper wall.
In returning this year, I have a strong team of close friends and the knowledge gained from five years ago. If we are fortunate, we will have passage through one of the great unclimbed features of the Himalayas.
Peace
- The North FaceTrackBack
TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.typepad.com/services/trackback/6a00d834f4a66953ef010534acd220970cListed below are links to weblogs that reference Topovan Basecamp:
Comments
Nail it boys.
Om.
Posted by: Dharma Bum Pollard | September 16, 2008 at 08:41 AM